From pioneering the use of Indonesian ingredients in fine dining to reimagining his culinary empire with bold innovations, Chris Salans dishes on new chapters and proves why Indonesian flavours will never go out of style.
– by Rizky Adityo –
E: You were among the first to champion Indonesian ingredients in a fine dining setting. How has your relationship with these ingredients evolved over the years?
A: You’re right in saying I’m an ingredient-driven chef—without those ingredients, inspiration simply doesn’t exist. Wherever I travel, my first stop is always the local market. I immerse myself in the local food scene and discover what’s growing naturally in the area. With its 17,500 islands, Indonesia is a culinary paradise. Each island provides unique ingredients, and even the same item can vary widely from place to place. For me, it’s pure bliss. Every trip brings fresh discoveries and new flavours, and that ongoing quest keeps my cuisine evolving.
E: Mozaic has long been synonymous with refined French-Indonesian cuisine. What’s new at Mozaic right now, and how are you continuing to push the boundaries in the kitchen?
A: A lot has shifted at Mozaic. After the pandemic, I faced the difficult choice to temporarily close the restaurant. When it was time to reopen, I knew we couldn’t just pick up where we left off. After 22 years, it needed a complete transformation—a rebirth. I invited back one of my former chefs, Blake Thornley, not just as a chef but as a partner.
He has completely reimagined the presentation and techniques while keeping our signature flavours intact. We’ve also revamped the entire dining experience. Mozaic is now a multi-dining destination. You can still enjoy our classic tasting menu, but we’ve also introduced à la carte options in a more casual, modern setting featuring an open kitchen, in collaboration with Nayati.
E: The culinary landscape in Bali has changed dramatically since you opened Mozaic. What are the most significant shifts you’ve observed in Bali’s fine dining scene?
A: Bali has certainly emerged as a fine dining hotspot. Nowadays, you’ll easily find 20 or 30 fine dining restaurants across the island, if not more. One of the biggest changes is the rise of Indonesian chefs launching their own fine dining establishments. In the early days, it was largely expats like myself, along with Will Meyrick, Will Goldfarb and Elke Plasmeijer. But now, local chefs are stepping up not just in Bali, but everywhere. That’s incredibly rewarding for me, as mentoring and inspiring the next generation has always been part of my mission.
E: You’re preparing to reopen Spice by Chris Salans. What can we expect from this exciting relaunch?
A: There are so many changes on the horizon, and we genuinely can’t wait to bring back Spice because, honestly, we’ve all missed it. This time, we’re reopening it as Spice by Blake, led by Chef Blake Thornley. The new Spice will still celebrate that Indonesian essence, but it will be infused with a sleeker, more international flair. Picture modern design, a lively atmosphere and bold reinterpretations of Indonesian classics. At its heart, Spice remains about honouring Indonesian flavours with modern techniques. But this time, we’re thinking bigger. We want to reshape how people perceive Indonesian food, especially abroad. Spice by Blake in Ubud is just the beginning; Spice Abroad is already in the pipeline.
E: Are there any standout ingredients or flavour profiles that inspired and influenced your upcoming menus at Mozaic or the new Spice?
A: Even after 30 years in Indonesia, I’m still stumbling upon new ingredients—and that’s where the magic lies. Blake has introduced cutting-edge techniques and tools that enable us to look at ingredients from fresh perspectives. I’ve always valued traditional craftsmanship, but he’s bringing culinary innovation into the mix. The results? Absolutely mind-blowing. Take young bamboo shoots, for example. We’ve started smoking them—a technique inspired by Blake’s experiences in China. The shoots turn black yet maintain a satisfying crunch, all while carrying a wonderful wood-smoke aroma.
E: Looking back, what advice would you give to your younger self at the beginning of this culinary adventure?
A: That’s a meaningful question—especially now, as my 25-year-old son steps into the culinary world. In many ways, I’m already giving advice to my younger self. The main thing I’d say? Go abroad. Explore the world. Work in the best kitchens. Immerse yourself in diverse cuisines. It broadens both your palate and perspective. You can learn a lot anywhere, but to truly grasp a cuisine, you need to experience it at its roots. Once you’ve done that, return and break the rules.
Exquisite Taste Volume 47
Chris Salans
IG: @chris_salans
