In the disciplined world of yakitori, where binchōtan charcoal is often regarded as untouchable, Firebird by Suetomi, a concept by Ebb & Flow Group, at Mondrian Singapore Duxton charts a more instinctive course. Instead of relying on the steady, controlled heat of charcoal, the restaurant embraces firewood despite its unpredictable nature.
Wood burns hotter and wilder, flames rise higher and shift with subtle changes in airflow. It demands vigilance, sensitivity, and a cook who can read heat as if it were a living thing. Chef Makoto Suetomi honed this approach at his Tokyo restaurant, Makitori Shinkobe, a destination so sought-after that reservations are secured months in advance. At Firebird, that same philosophy of controlled intensity now takes root in Singapore.
Execution of the culinary vision rests with Head Chef Alvin Leong, whose prestigious background at Odette and Waku Ghin informs the kitchen’s meticulous approach. He successfully translates the precision of MICHELIN-level fine dining into the more primal, elemental realm of wood-fire cooking. This technical rigour ensures that while the fire provides raw character, every dish maintains a sense of refinement and balance. By marrying his classical discipline with the unpredictable nature of live embers, Leong elevates simple ingredients into a sophisticated experience that defines the restaurant’s unique identity.
E: What first inspired you to become a chef, and how did your journey lead you to Firebird by Suetomi?
A: When I started thinking about what I wanted to do, I realised I could not imagine myself in an office. That’s when I began my culinary journey at Odette, a three-MICHELIN-starred modern French-Asian restaurant in Singapore, I was a commis on the opening team, which gave me a strong foundation. After that, I moved to Waku Ghin because I wanted to understand Japanese ingredients better.
E: What food memories from your early life still influence you today?
A: My mum is Indonesian and also a chef, so I grew up on her Indonesian cooking, and that is a big part of who I am. That is where my love for bold, spicy flavours comes from. Sambal Balado was always a favourite, and it inspired the Harissa sauce, a capsicum relish we typically serve on our chicken breast skewer.
E: Who have been the biggest influences in shaping you as a chef?
A: My mum was in the kitchen, and my dad was in front of house, so I was exposed to both sides of hospitality from a young age. It gave me a deep respect for the work behind the scenes and for what guests’ experience. During my culinary journey, one of my biggest influences was a mentor I worked under. He was intense, extremely detailed, and had very high standards, but he truly walked the walk.
E: How do you personally approach cooking with fire and yakitori at Firebird?
A: I see cooking with fire as more than just a method. Fire has character, and different types of wood bring different aromas and flavours, so understanding that is essential. I focus a lot on balance, finding the right level of caramelisation and doneness, and allowing the smokiness to enhance the ingredients. When done well, wood-fired cooking adds depth and warmth that cannot be easily replicated.
E: How do you balance honouring Chef Makoto Suetomi’s philosophy while adding your own touch?
A: Chef Suetomi and I are very aligned in our philosophy, especially when it comes to respect for ingredients, discipline, and precision. My intention was never to change that, but to build on it. I bring in small influences from my background, whether that is a local touch or techniques inspired by my time in French kitchens, but it will always stay within Firebird’s identity.
E: What challenges and rewards come with working in a wood-fire kitchen?
A: There are days when you feel it, from the heat and sweat to the occasional burn mark. Personally, preparation before service is important, including protecting your skin and managing the fire properly before service begins (laughs). However, when you have put in that much effort and care, and you see guests enjoying the food, that feeling never gets old. Seeing their reactions is what keeps me motivated.
E: Is there one dish at Firebird that best represents you as a chef?
A: If I had to choose, it would be our Soboro Rice. I have always loved rice, and I grew up eating chicken rice, so it feels very personal to me. We use Akitakomachi rice from Akita, which has a beautiful texture and flavour. The minced chicken is slowly caramelised over a wood fire, layering on smoke without overpowering the rice. It is simple and comforting, but very intentional, and that reflects how I like to cook.
E: What do you hope guests feel after dining at Firebird?
A: I hope guests leave with a better understanding of wood-fire cooking, which is different from traditional charcoal. Wood brings its own aroma and offers a gentler and more nuanced heat. I also hope guests see that even humble ingredients like chicken or other birds can be exceptional when treated with care and cooked over wood.
E: What’s next for you in your culinary journey?
A: I am quite happy where I am now. I do not need to set fixed goals, and I prefer to keep an open mind and take on opportunities and challenges as they come. That said, I would like to take Firebird to greater heights. My focus is on growing here and doing the best work I can.
HIGHLIGHTS
- Soboro Rice
- Chicken Breast with Harissa Sauce
- Homemade Shumai
Exquisite Taste Volume 50
Firebird by Suetomi
at Mondrian Singapore Duxton
83 Neil Road, Duxton Hl
Singapore 089813
T: (+65) 97762476
E: enquiries@firebirdbysuetomi.sg
IG: @firebird.sg
