In many countries roast goose is normally something of a seasonal dish. In many Western European nations, for example, it’s a popular Christmas Day centrepiece where its size, distinct flavour and delightful appearance make it an ideal family meal. Through the rest of the year, however, it seldom makes the family dining table and appears only rarely on restaurant menus. In Hong Kong, however, roast goose is revered and eaten year round, being available as both a fast food from street vendors and as one of the feature dishes of many famous Cantonese restaurants.
Roasting is a tradition within Cantonese cuisine, with roast goose sitting alongside both roast pork and duck in terms of popularity. The goose is heavily seasoned, often using secret family recipes, before roasting in a very hot charcoal oven. The high temperature crisps the skin and ensures the meat remains tender and flowing with juices. Once cooked the geese are normally hung before being sliced and diced to order and served with plum sauce.
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Ho Lee Fook
A funky Chinese kitchen inspired by old-school Hong Kong, Ho Lee Fook may well be a playful eatery with a tongue-in-cheek moniker, but the roast goose here is as serious as they come. Taiwanese-born chef Jowett Yu’s inventive approach is best enjoyed with an open mind and a strong appetite as this extra juicy and flavourful goose is brined in a mixture of cloves, fennel seeds, coriander seeds, Sichuan pepper and ginger, prior to being roasted. This version has been compared to the roast goose at some of the most well-known and classic Siu Mei restaurants in Hong Kong, and just like all the other roast dishes at Ho Lee Fook, the goose is particularly delicious when eaten with their Hong Kong-style French toast.
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Yung Kee
Established in 1942, Yung Kee is perhaps the oldest and most famous spot for traditional roast goose in Hong Kong. This iconic restaurant has helped put the succulent delicacy on the culinary map, and as such has become an integral part of Hong Kong’s heritage. The humble eatery is situated in the heart of the Central District, founded by Kam Shui-fai and today run by the third-generation of the renowned Kam Family, who have preserved age-old recipes from generation to generation. So what is so special about this particular roast goose? Well for starters, Yung Kee picks the best, black-feathered geese that are most suitable for roasting, then, firmly following the special recipe and method set by its founder, Yung Kee enjoys the unique privilege of using charcoal briquets to roast the geese, which was granted by the Hong Kong government over 40 years ago. The result? An especially fatty, juicy and fragrant goose, complete with shatteringly crisp skin and a rich, gamey middle.
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Kam’s Roast Goose
Though Yung Kee is world-famous for its roast goose, many argue that Kam’s Roast Goose tops the charts in terms of taste, and it seems the Michelin Guide agrees, awarding Kam’s a Michelin star in its first four months of opening. As the name suggests, Kam’s is actually run by the sons of the Kam Family, and with this brings the same legendary reputation as its predecessor. The geese here are specially sourced from Dongguan and freshly delivered every morning, but instead of traditionally charcoal grilling the geese, Kam’s are roasted in a gas oven and served with a subtly sweet plum sauce. The skin is somehow crispier, yet at once juicy, tender and almost sticky. As for the meat, just one touch with a spoon and the piping hot tender strips of fatty goose simply fall from the bone.
