Singaporean celebrity Chef Sam Leong helms the kitchen at the one-Michelin star Forest森 in Resorts World Sentosa where he and his culinary team are inspired by ingredients, techniques and skills from around the world to continually enhance and develop Chinese fine dining, bringing it to new heights.
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Chef Sam Leong’s is one of Singapore’s most renowned Chinese cuisine chefs, with a stellar career that has spanned over three decades. Exquisite Taste chatted to this cooking show star, who has travelled extensively for prestigious culinary events, published cookbooks and groomed numerous culinary talents, to ask him about his experiences, inspiration and dreams.
E: When did your culinary journey first start?
A: My culinary journey started in 1981 when I was just 15 years old. I had failed most of my exams and was kicked out of school. Since my dad and some of our relatives were chefs, becoming a chef seemed to be the natural option for me back then.
I’ve never really looked back and, since 1981, cooking has become my profession for life.
E: What inspired you to get into the kitchen?
A: Actually, my dream was to become a policeman. However, as I said, I didn’t do well enough in my studies and had to leave school, so my path to becoming a chef was not inspired or planned, in fact you could say I stumbled across it accidentally!
E: How would you define your current style at Forest森?
A: My current culinary style is contemporary Chinese cuisine, and I hope and aim to redefine the Chinese fine-dining experience at Forest森. I take a Western approach in the presentation of my dishes and embrace the use of Western techniques, as well as using both Western and Japanese produce, such as foie gras, wagyu beef, truffles, morel mushrooms and cheese, to enhance the tastes, colours and overall dining experience.
The eight-course and 10-course Discovery Menus at Forest森 totally encapsulate my culinary philosophy. Forest森 also features a custom-designed open kitchen as the centrepiece so that diners can watch me and my culinary team in action.
E: What are some of your favourite experiences as a chef?
A: Like many people, I enjoy comfort food a lot and so whenever I travel, I will always seek out the authentic comfort food in the country, based on locals’ recommendations.
My favourite in-house practice is getting to try all the different kinds of food available in the kitchen, whilst perhaps my most unique culinary experience was when I was invited to cook at an event in Margaret River, Perth. It was unique as it was set in the middle of the forest; I have never had an experience like this before or since.
E: What countries has your career taken you to and do you have a favourite?
A: I have been to so many countries that it is hard for me to list them down. However, from a chef’s perspective, I probably still enjoy Singapore the most due to both the variety and quality of food that is available here. From the street to the finest restaurants, Singapore is a wonderful destination for gourmands.
E: Do you have a favourite regional cuisine? If so, what do you like about it?
A: Yes, I really do love Thai food! I particularly like how the cuisine makes use of all the different spices to make the food incredibly aromatic. As an ingredient, I also adore fresh wasabi. Many years ago, fresh wasabi wasn’t common in Singapore and only available in tube form. After I tried fresh wasabi, I have been hooked on it ever since and use it extensively.
E: What inspired your signature Charcoal Grilled Kagoshima Wagyu Striploin?
A: The inspiration for this signature dish, which is served with sautéed assorted mushrooms and topped with succulent seared foie gras in black pepper sauce, came about when I was in Japan and the supplier introduced me to this specific type of beef. It tasted so good that I decided to bring it back to Forest森 and include it on the menu. The cooking method is conventional, but I decided to use lychee wood charcoal which imparts a distinct flavour.
E: What is the most unusual food you have been offered or discovered?
A: There are many unusual foods in Asia but perhaps the most unusual experience for me was many years ago when I visited China during the winter season and the host offered me dog meat. The Chinese believe that it will help warm the body.
E: You already helm a Michelin-starred restaurant, what future goals do you have?
A: I am always looking to refine what we have already done in terms of food and experience. Eventually, in the future, I hope with this focus that Forest森 will be able to earn a second Michelin star.
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Double-Boiled Milky Chicken Broth with Morel Mushroom and Wild Bamboo Pith in Whole Fragrant Coconut
Ingredients
· 30 Morel mushrooms
· 10 Conpoy / dried scallop (pre-made)
· 20 wild bamboo piths (cut into pieces)
· 30 Wolfberries
Milky Chicken Soup
· 500g lean pork (cut into pieces)
· 10 chicken’s feet
· 1kg chicken (old fowl) (cut into pieces)
· 10l water
Seasoning
· 2l slice of ginger
· ½ tsp salt
· ½ tsp sugar
· 2 tbsp Chinese wine (hua tiew chiew)
Garnish
· Whole fragrant coconut
· Spring onion (chopped)
Method
1. Soak morel mushrooms in cold water for 30 minutes, then steam for 20 minutes and set aside.
2. Soak wild bamboo pith in cold water for 30 minutes, then steam for 20 minutes and set aside.
3. Soak conpoy in cold water for 30 minutes, remove water. Add fresh water to the conpoy and add a slice of ginger, spring onion and a dash of salt. Steam for 45 minutes until soft.
4. Combine morel mushrooms, conpoy, wild bamboo pith and wolfberries in a whole fragrant coconut.
5. Bring milky chicken consommé to a boil and season to taste. Pour into whole fragrant coconut.
6. Steam for 15 minutes until hot.
7. Garnish with spring onion.
Method for Milky Chicken Soup
1. Quick blanch lean pork, chicken’s feet and chicken (old fowl) in hot water for about 3 minutes, then wash with water until clean and set aside.
2. Place the above into a large pot with 10 litres of water, simmer on very low heat for 3 hours.
3. After 3 hours, all the ingredients will be very soft. Turn the temperature very high and boil for another 30 minutes. Continue stirring at this stage until the meat and bones break down and dissolve into the consommé, naturally turning it a milky color.
4. Remove from the heat and strain. Preserve the milky consommé for later use.
Note: 10 litres of water after 3 hours of slow simmering will reduce to about 5 litres of milky consommé.
Serves 10
