Raised in New Hampshire but deeply rooted in the rich traditions of Sicilian kitchens, Vinny Lauria’s journey to Della Terra in Bali is truly remarkable. From rolling pasta on a milk crate beside his grandfather to working in a Michelin-starred restaurant in New York City, Chef Lauria’s path has always been guided by family and honest ingredients. Now at the helm of a vibrant osteria in Canggu, he blends Italian soul with Balinese terroir, proving that great food always begins with a story.
by Vincentius Alvin
E : What is your earliest childhood memory of good food?
A: I was born and raised in New Hampshire, but on weekends, we would drive to Boston to visit my grandparents and enjoy a big Sunday supper. My grandfather came over from Sicily, had a passion for cooking. His backyard was filled with a jungle of tomato plants, fig trees and grapevines. I was his sidekick, his sous chef and his buddy. My first true cooking memory with him was standing on an overturned milk crate, hand-rolling pasta while red sauce bubbled on the stove. That mix of homegrown vegetables, homemade wine and family storytelling still flavours every plate we serve at Della Terra.
E : Was there a moment when you discovered your love for culinary arts?
A: From a young age, I did a lot of cooking for my friends and family. When people asked what I wanted to be when I grew up, I always proclaimed, “I want to be a chef”. However, it was at 14 years old that I really knew. I started washing dishes at a family friend’s restaurant, and I was captivated by the fast-paced environment of a professional kitchen. I loved it to my core and would do whatever it took to become successful.
E : Who has influenced your culinary style the most, and what’s the best advice you received?
A: My mentor chef at Babbo, Mario Batali, changed the game for me with his philosophy on Italian food: “If you are in New York cooking Italian food, you should use ingredients sourced from New York and cook them with Italian techniques”. I have carried that philosophy throughout my culinary journey, from New York City to Hong Kong, and now to our humble osteria in Bali.
E : What brought you to Della Terra?
A: Bali’s terroir offers the same quality and variety of ingredients that Sicily is famous for, which my grandfather worked so hard to cultivate in his garden. Here, I can meet the farmers who grow my vegetables and the fishermen who caught my prawns. Bringing that to a farm‑to‑table Italian restaurant in Pererenan, Canggu feels like coming full circle.
E : What sets Della Terra apart from other restaurants and bars in Bali?
A: First, we have an obsessive pasta programme. Doughs are mixed every morning with a blend of Italian heritage wheat and organic Balinese grains, then rolled, dried or charcoal‑kissed to achieve the perfect texture. Second, we focus on verdure first – vegetables are headliners, not just side dishes. I change the menu daily based on what inspires me and what the farmers provide. Third, we serve natural and biodynamic wines that reflect both Sicilian coastline and Bali’s volcanic terroir. Lastly, our house wine is served in tumblers, accompanied by psychedelic‑folk music, creating a welcome‑home atmosphere that evokes the vibe of a Boston family kitchen in an island setting.
E : What are your thoughts on recent culinary trends in Bali?
A: I love the move toward sustainable dining; it validates what my grandfather taught me as we cooked together from his garden and reflects the slow food philosophy that Batali brought to New York.
E : What is your signature dish, and why is it important to you?
A: Fazzoletti Grano Arso, the charcoal‑grilled sheets of burnt‑grain pasta layered with house‑made ricotta and anchovy. It captures everything we care about: heirloom grains for rich flavour, live‑fire techniques for depth, and bold yet balanced seasoning that pays homage to both Sicily and Bali. It’s a dish that demonstrates how great ingredients, when treated with respect don’t need bells and whistles—just skill and soul.
E : In your opinion, what makes a great chef?
A: Curiosity and humility are two incredibly important characteristics of a great chef. As I explore the world’s culinary diversity, I become increasingly humbled. However, the most important trait for a great chef is the willingness to learn and improve oneself daily. In many ways, a chef resembles the captain of a ship. If he or she is not striving to make themselves and those around them the best they can be, then the ship will remain stagnant.
Fazzoletti Grano Arso
Ingredients:
Fazzoletti (pasta sheets):
- 200g flour
- 100g semolina rimacinata
- 3 eggs
- 10g olive oil
- Pinch of salt
Assembly:
- 100g ricotta
- 4pc anchovy
- 15g olive oil
- 3g chives, finely chopped
- 1g ground chilli
- Maldon salt
- 1 lemon cheek
Method:
- Combine the flours and salt, then make a well in the centre. Adds the eggs and olive oil.
- Mix and knead until smooth, about 10 minutes. Wrap in plastic wrap and let rest for 30 minutes.
- Roll out the dough into large thin sheets, approximately 1mm thick and cut into 12cm squares.
- Blanch the squares in salted boiling water for 15–20 seconds. Immediately transfer them to ice water to shock them, and then lay them on cloths to dry.
To Grill the Pasta:
- Lightly brush each square with olive oil.
- Grill the pasta on a hot cast-iron grill 20–30 seconds on each side, until they are lightly charred but still pliable.
- Set the grilled squares aside, keeping them warm and covered, or serve them immediately.
Plating:
- Layer the grilled fazzoletti with ricotta and anchovy, then fold them.
- Drizzle over olive oil.
- Sprinkle with chilli flakes, salt and chives.
- Garnish with a lemon cheek.
Exquisite Taste Volume 48
Della Terra
IG : @dellaterrabali
