An experienced chef and leader who has led kitchens in Europe, North America and Asia, Chef Claudio Rossi has joined the talented team of Park Hyatt Jakarta to helm its culinary offerings, which include two restaurants, two bars and an exclusive lounge that houses various comfort food and light meals, welcoming guests into greater territories.
E: Would you tell us about your background and how you got into cooking?
A: My father was from Milan, and my mother was from Venice. At first, I thought I would become an engineer like my dad, but I guess destiny took me to the kitchen with my mum. I really enjoyed the flexibility and creativity of preparing food and often helped my mother, from making desserts to meat dishes, home-made pastas to butchering meat. I followed further in her footsteps by going to culinary institute.
E: What made you decide to start your career in Milan and work in several restaurants there?
A: Good question. At the beginning, I was doing fine in local restaurants while going to school in Monza. It was just luck that the last two years of my studies were spent in Milan, where I joined Alto Palato private school and restaurant. It has good programmes all over Europe, multiple Michelin-starred chefs like Claudio Sadler and Gualtiero Marchesi have studied there as well. The school recognised my versatility and introduced me to Milano Moda, which gave me the opportunity to cook private events for Missoni, Gucci, and other fashion houses.
E: You have been working in professional kitchens for more than two decades. What keeps you going?
A: It’s all about passion for cooking! I love food and drinks of any kind. I also like to keep myself updated on cooking as much as I can, even learning from unlikely sources such as the internet, Netflix, Instagram and Facebook. I’m not shy about visiting my competitors, or even something as simple as walking the city streets and trying the food. All this excites me and keeps me going.
E: A big part of your career has been as executive chef in various kitchens. In your opinion, what is the most important thing a leader in the kitchen needs to have?
A: You need to able to step back and support all your chefs and cooks. Don’t be a prima donna; your role now is to manage the kitchen. There is less time dedicated to cooking and more to coaching, teaching, reviewing, and planning the operations. Be prepared, knowledgeable, fair, humble, well focused and disciplined. Lastly, have lots and lots of passion because the hours are long, no matter where you are.
E: You have lived in so many cities around the world. Can you tell us which one has the best culinary scene and why?
A: This is a tricky question because I liked them all. Digging deep, I have to say that it’s Hong Kong. It’s probably the most comprehensive one, where as a chef you are spoiled by the immense quality and variety of food products, by the competition and also a crowd of guests who understand you and what you are proposing with your food.
E: This is not your first time in Jakarta. What brought you back?
A: This is the fourth time in 30 years that I’ve worked in Jakarta. I like the people, the country, the food. I feel comfortable working in Indonesia with colleagues who are talented, humble, and who pride themselves on what they have and what they do.
E: Lastly, we have to ask, where is your favourite place to eat in Jakarta and what’s your favourite dish there?
A: I have to say that I often go to Agneya near Dharmawangsa and Satay Khas Senayan in Menteng for local cuisine. I enjoy the Latino-American food at Carbón very much, while for the best pizza, pasta and cold cuts I go to Basilico in Gandaria City.
Homemade Pappardelle, Braised Beef Cheeks, Burrata
PASTA
INGREDIENTS
- 4 medium eggs
- 2 egg yolks
- 400g unbleached all-purpose flour
- Salt to taste
METHOD
- Beat the eggs, mix into the flour with a pinch of salt. Knead well until smooth, shape into a ball, cover with plastic wrap and set aside in the fridge to rest for 30 minutes.
- Using a pasta machine or a rolling pin, roll the dough into sheets approximately 24-cm long and wide, then cut into 2-cm wide strips.
- Leave to rest in a dry place.
SAUCE
INGREDIENTS
- 300g wagyu beef cheek, cut into chunks and trimmed of excess fat
- 4tbsp cooking oil
- 2 cups red wine
- 1 medium onion, chopped
- 1 medium carrot, chopped
- 1 stick celery, chopped
- 2 cloves garlic
- 2 fresh tomatoes, diced
- 4 cups chicken broth
- Salt and pepper to taste
- 1 piece fresh burrata cheese
- 100g parmesan cheese, grated
- 100g unsalted butter
METHOD
- Heat two tablespoons of oil in an ovenproof six-litre wide heavy pot over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking.
- While oil is heating, pat beef cheeks dry and season with salt and pepper.
- Brown beef, without crowding, on all sides, about 20 minutes total, then transfer to a bowl.
- Pour fat from pot, then add remaining two tablespoons of oil and cook onion, carrot, and celery over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 10 minutes.
- Pre-heat oven to 160C.
- In the pot, add wine and scrape up any brown bits. Increase heat to high and boil until liquid is reduced by half, about 10 minutes.
- Return cheeks (with any juices) to pot and add tomatoes with juice, salt, and pepper. Bring to a simmer, then braise, covered, in middle of oven until very tender, about three hours.
- Pull apart the beef cheeks into smaller pieces to form a ragout and mix in a sautéing pan with the sauce.
- Cook pappardelle in salted boiling water until al dente. Transfer them into the meat pan and gently mix well with the sauce. Add cold unsalted butter and mix well.
- Using a ladle and a tweezer, roll the pappardelle into a nest shape and arrange in the serving bowl. Place meat on top.
- Cut burrata into smaller pieces and arrange on the meat and pasta. Sprinkle with some fresh grated parmesan cheese and fresh cracked black pepper. Serve.
Park Hyatt Jakarta (parkhyattjakarta.com)
