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By Jake Fredericks
Olivier Elzer, Seasons co-founder and executive chef, is a young culinary star with renowned gourmet roots. His grandfather once served as chef to the last tsar of Russia. Captivated by his grandfather’s passion and talent for food perfection, the 36-year-old French chef developed his own gourmet philosophy, driven by the idea that perfection is fleeting – every dish has another layer of refinement hidden away. To this end, Chef Olivier is always looking for new ideas. While traditions and classics ought to be continued, this should not come at the expense of innovation and invention.
Guided by the experience of culinary luminaries, Chef Olivier started his career with and eventually graduated to receiving accolades from Michelin restaurants throughout France. In 2007, he was named one of the country’s 22 best young chefs by Gault Millau. Not one to rest on his laurels, this Michelin-starred chef chose Hong Kong as his next food frontier in 2009. During his time with the Hong Kong Mandarin Oriental’s Pierre Restaurant and L’ Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Central, he acted as executive chef and chef de cuisine, leading these two fine-dining establishments to two and three Michelin Stars respectively in 2010 and 2012.
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E : What is it that drives your passion for food?
A: I define my interest in food by the diversity and variety that we can find internationally. To be able to work on food products coming from different corners around the world is an idea that pleases me a lot and strongly increases my creativity.
E : How would you describe your culinary philosophy?
A: My culinary philosophy has certainly changed since I arrived in Hong Kong. With my French background I quickly understood how important is to be reactive and competitive. Today French gastronomy suffers from too much complexity. I really want to thank Mr. Joel Robuchon for transmitting to me his inspiration of French cuisine focused on taste, technical mastery and simplicity.
E : How do you see this philosophy playing out at Seasons?
A: We opened Seasons two years ago and the restaurant works very well. The idea was not to make a gourmet restaurant strictly speaking but a modern French restaurant. In 2016, it is possible to reconcile creative cuisine with a much simpler and relaxed service. Here, the notion of a popular restaurant is much stronger than in France and that’s why I want Seasons to combine all types of guests. For lunch, the average price is HKD350, which allows it to remain accessible.
From now on, I want to develop my knowledge and recipes under various aspects. Without any pretention, I feel invested in returning French food to a form of simplicity.
E : I understand that Seasons has quite an interesting concept. Can you tell us a little about the restaurant from your perspective?
A: The restaurant has been designed around the four seasons, so you can actually discover four different atmospheres, which brings to our guests a choice of environment to enhance their culinary experience. Seasons is a cosmopolitan and smart-casual French restaurant, which places an emphasis on intimacy over austerity, comfort over conformity and quality over all else.
E : What is your favourite dish at Seasons, and what makes it so special?
A: My signature at Seasons is entitled: “Grilled Tuna Belly in Five Spices, Crushed Avocado & Crispy Shallot”. This dish has followed me since I started to work in Burgundy and at this time I wanted to create a creative and modern culinary invention to break the traditions. Our guests are convinced I found my inspiration in Asia and are naturally surprised when I explain to them there is almost nothing Asian in either dish creation or composition. This dish combines together a profitability, easy realisation and high efficacy for leaving a mark on everyone’s mind.
E : What is it that inspires you to create?
A: Before all, my creations are based on the seasons and respect for product. Secondly, I defend the French gastronomic classics, which means for me a set of values including “terroirs” (soil), traditions and “art de vivre” (lifestyle). Finally, creativity is very important for new inventions, challenging to exceed our guests’ expectations without forgetting simplicity.
E : What are some of your favourite ingredients to work with?
A: I really don’t have any preferences on specific ingredients as my selection is made in relation to the seasons. Thanks to the organisation in Hong Kong, I am able to work with the same producers as those who I already had in Burgundy for the finest French ingredients. Besides, I also benefit from the best Japanese, Hong Kong and Australian products.
E : Can you recall the proudest moment of your career so far?
A: I can definitely say I have two memorable moments that specially marked my career. The first was when I obtained three Michelin stars at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Hong Kong, this was one of those moments you feel your perseverance has paid off. And the second was when I, as a foreigner, opened my own French restaurant in Hong Kong. Specifically when I look back after the project has been realised today and I can say that it is a real success.
E : What type of food do you crave outside of work?
A: During my free time, I really enjoy Asian food in general with a slight preference for Japanese sushi-sashimi
E : What advice would you give to someone who aspires to be a chef?
A: I won’t say anything new but just the truth – if you aspire to be a chef you have to be passionate about your job. It is not even possible to think of being a chef just for pleasure; it requires a lot of dedication, time, sacrifices and perseverance.
Crispy Kadaif Soft Boiled Egg, Hollandaise Emulsion & Caviar
INGREDIENTS
• 1 egg
• 1 tbs horseradish cream
• Hollandaise sauce foam to taste
• 10g caviar (added on top of the egg)
EGG
• 1 egg
• 5 pcs chervil (for decoration)
• Flours & Kadaif
METHOD
Boil the egg for 5 to 6 minutes and place it into the ice straight away. Remove the shell and add flour, egg yolk & Kadaif around it. Deep fry in 180° oil for 1 minute until the egg gets warm inside.
Horseradish cream
• 60g horseradish
• 120g cream
• Water plus salt
METHOD
Cook the cream in a pan with all the ingredients all ingredients, wait until the mixture thickens.
Hollandaise sauce
• 150g butter
• 85g egg yolk
• 60g water
• 15g lemon juice
• 18g vinegar
• 3g salt
METHOD
Slow cook for 30 mins at 75°.
* To achieve espuma texture, prepare
it in a siphon with gas capsules.
