After working in many kitchens around the world, Chef Kunihiro Moroi’s journey brought him to Indonesia. He recently joined the pre-opening team of Pan Pacific Jakarta, where he is now the Japanese executive chef of Keyaki Japanese Restaurant, a glorious 90th-floor restaurant in the brand new hotel. It’s always a pleasure to catch up and let him tell us his story.
– by Rizki Pradana –
E: What inspired you to pursue a career in Japanese cuisine, and how did your upbringing in Kyoto influence your culinary style?
A: The legacy of my grandfather’s tempura restaurant in Kyoto has always been a source of inspiration for me. Growing up, I had the opportunity to witness the art of cooking tempura and sashimi, as well as the art of connecting with customers. This experience has given me a deep appreciation for the traditional cuisine of Kyoto.
E: Can you share some memorable experiences from your time at Kyoto Culinary College?
A: I embarked on my culinary journey while still in high school, attending classes at night. Starting with a group of around 50 eager individuals, where only 24 of us persevered until graduation. The challenges of forging a culinary career in Japan at that time added layers of difficulty, but they also amplified the sweetness of our success.
E: Following the previous question, can you share some memorable experiences during your early days as a sous chef at Tsurukou?
A: One of my most memorable memories is the time I worked tirelessly for two consecutive nights and then headed out to deliver tea. During that period, I pushed myself to endure 64 hours without sleep, barely pausing for breaks or meals. This intense experience profoundly strengthened my mental resilience, leaving me feeling more resilient than ever before.
E: You’ve worked at Michelin-starred restaurants in Japan, Macau and China. What are some key lessons you’ve learned from your global culinary experiences?
A: Throughout my journey, I’ve had the privilege to collaborate with more than 20 Michelin-starred chefs. These incredible professionals have been my mentors, guiding me through a world of culinary excellence. From them, I’ve gleaned invaluable techniques and expertise, ranging from innovative cooking styles to the meticulous art of low-temperature cooking. Each collaboration has reinforced the fundamental pillars of my craft: mastering techniques and cherishing the quality of ingredients. Their wisdom continues to inspire me, reminding me of the essence of culinary mastery every step of the way.
E: How do you balance traditional Japanese culinary techniques with modern influences in your cooking?
A: I think about the food comprehensively based on my experience, the ingredients available locally and the skills of my staff. I can’t cook restaurant food by myself. There are modern dishes, but in the end, the most important thing is the ingredients and the techniques, so the preparation of the food is more important than the finishing touches.
E: What are some of your signature dishes at Keyaki, and what makes them special?
A: One of our dishes is called dashi jelly. It’s a collaboration with Chef Takagi, Kyoto’s own two-Michelin-starred chef, who is our consultant chef during this pre-opening period. This exquisite dish harmonises Tosa vinegar jelly with delicate seafood, enhanced by a vibrant infusion of beet’s red hue. The result is not just visually stunning but also deeply authentic in flavour. By combining premium ingredients sourced from Indonesia, we’ve crafted a unique fusion that blends Japanese precision with Indonesian richness.
Dashi Jelly Vinegar Seafood
Ingredients
- 10g ikura
- 15g salmon
- 15g tuna
- 15g kampachi
- 1 tiger prawn
- 1 oba leaf
- 20g Japanese cucumber
- 20g beetroot
- 200cc dashi stock
- 20cc cooking sake
- 20cc Higashimaru soy sauce
- 20cc Japanese rice vinegar
- 20cc mirin
- 20g gelatine
- 20g bonito flakes
- Edible flowers and gold leaf as a garnish
METHOD
- Slice sashimi fish into two pieces each.
- Blanch the shrimp in salted water, peel and cut each into two pieces.
- Cut the Japanese cucumber into bite-sized pieces.
- In a hot pot, boil beets in dashi stock for 10 minutes until they turn red. Add all seasonings before it boils. Then, add the bonito flakes and gelatin. Turn off the heat.
- Strain the emulsion and refrigerate.
- Once it solidifies, break the jelly into small pieces with a fork.
- On a plate, arrange oba, seafood and cucumber, then top with dashi jelly, ikura, gold leaf and edible flowers.
Exquisite Taste Volume 44
Keyaki Japanese Restaurant
at Pan Pacific Jakarta
Thamrin Nine, Luminary Tower
Jalan M.H. Thamrin
Jakarta 10230, Indonesia
T: (+62) 2150820003
E: keyaki.ppjkt@panpacific.com
IG: @keyakijakarta
