Being a multi-award-winning chef at a two-Michelin-starred restaurant is no easy feat, especially when you’re bringing new tastes to a completely new place. Nonetheless, Devon-born Kirk Westaway has successfully redefined JAAN by channelling his rooted passion for natural flavours into signature culinary masterpieces inspired by his childhood in England. We sat down with this culinary marvel and dug deep into what there is to know about Modern British cuisine.
E: When did you discover that you had a passion for cooking?
A: At a very young age, I enjoyed helping my mother cook for our family. It always fascinated me how she could take a few simple ingredients, mainly from our kitchen garden, and create something so delicious and nourishing. I grew up in a vegetarian household, so I think that’s likely where my fascination with vegetables began.
E: You have an extremely prestigious culinary background and earned Michelin stars very early in your career. What is the secret to your success?
A: For anyone looking to start a career in food, I would like to share two key learning points and beliefs I fully stand by. Firstly, be prepared to roll up your sleeves and work hard. I would stand there for hours, picking leaves. Yes, it’s one of those repetitive, mundane tasks but it’s an important one that helps shape you as a chef.
Secondly, take yourself out of your comfort zone. Get as much experience with different cuisines and chefs as you can. My experience took me from Europe to Brazil, where I learned so much working under different chefs. Although my menu celebrates Modern British food, I still draw on many of the ingredients and techniques I discovered during these ventures.
E: JAAN is your love letter to the place where you grew up. What is your fondest memory from your childhood?
A: Devon is such a special county known for its diverse terrain. I spent my childhood outdoors, running from the beaches to the rolling green fields. It was an idyllic setting and was all centred around nature, fresh air and fresh produce. We’d pick blackberries and apples in the autumn to make a pie or crumble, and pluck strawberries in the summer. I recall it fondly.
E: Introducing a new flavour in a new place must not have been easy. What challenges did you face when you first started?
A: I had always dreamed of launching a Modern British concept. When I took over as executive chef at JAAN, the restaurant was renowned for its authentic French cuisine. At first, I was stuck in this direction, but it just didn’t feel right. I wasn’t cooking the food I loved to eat or cook. At the very beginning, I wasn’t confident enough to share my vision, as it was unheard of, especially in this part of the world. But I knew that was the only route for me. I leapt into the dark and shared what I believed was the future for me and JAAN.
Singapore’s vibrant culinary scene is a melting pot of cultures and flavours. To put Modern British cuisine on the map here was no mean feat for a cuisine traditionally associated with beige and heavy dishes. We had a big challenge to convince locals and tourists alike to embrace Modern British cooking and to introduce vegetable-forward, light and fresh flavours. It was a tough undertaking, but it was worth every second of the work.
E: Your plating is exquisite. What inspires you to create these beautiful presentations, and do you express your artistry in other areas too?
A: I’m a terrible artist. I can’t draw at all. The styling you see on my plate is not a natural gift but a result of hard work and intensive training. We practise endlessly to get our plating perfect. However beautiful the presentation may be, this is the final hurdle for me. What comes first and most importantly is the taste and quality of the ingredients. Anyone can make a plate look pretty, yet they miss the vital art of mastering flavour profiles and culinary techniques.
E: In terms of your career, who has influenced you the most?
A: Julien Royer has been a very close friend of mine for over 15 years now, since our days working together in London. We’ve maintained that friendship here in Singapore. He is a true friend, mentor, and guide in my career.
E: You have just recently introduced a new look for JAAN, what plans do you have for the restaurant in the coming future?
A: Within JAAN, the team and I need to keep growing and developing. We can’t just rest on our laurels, so I hope for every one of us to keep innovating and expanding our creativity. Beyond JAAN, I’d be keen to look into other operations. I feel Singapore is screaming out for a casual British concept.
E: As a chef, what is your biggest guilty pleasure when it comes to food?
A: Maybe every six months, late at night after a few drinks with friends, I love a home-cooked sneaky packet of instant noodles. I’ll simmer the noodles on the hob, add only half of the seasonings, remove the pan from the heat and crack a free-range Japanese egg into the broth. I add a handful of fresh herbs and a bit more Japanese chilli spice. Maybe it’s the salty spicy hot comforting concoction, I feel guilty after but I love the flavour.
Exquisite Taste Volume 40
JAAN by Kirk Westaway
Swissôtel The Stamford
2 Stamford Road
Singapore 178882
T: (+65) 91999008
E: jaan.bookings@swissotel.com
W: jaan.sg
IG: @jaanbykirk
