Louis Roederer:
One of the truly great Champagne houses
The year was 1776, and, as the world watched, George Washington declared independence; in France, the quiet birth of another future superpower passed largely unnoticed. 1776 was the year Dubois Père & Fils, later to become Champagne Louis Roederer, entered the fray; a business that has stood the test of time and today stands amongst the oldest family-owned Champagne houses, where it produces some of the most sought-after wines in the world.
Today, their wines are critically acclaimed and, in some quarters, revered due to some incredible recent vintages, the long association with the rich and famous and consistently stellar reviews. Of the 1990 vintage, Robert Parker, one of the most influential global wine commentators, said in 2014: “It’s awesome! A classic of power and finesse, richness and delicacy, it may be the greatest Cristal I have ever tasted!”
What really put the house on the global wine map was its creation of Champagne’s first prestige cuvée, Cristal, for Tsar Alexander II of Russia in 1876. The Russian aristocracy followed his lead and the country became a huge market for Louis Roederer. By 1876, the house was already popular throughout Europe and producing great wines, but with the endorsement and subsequent changes to the wine’s character, by 1890, the decade of the Belle Epoque, Louis Roederer had become one of the leading Champagne houses, producing 2.5 million bottles, a staggering 10% of the entire region’s production.
Probably the most important figure in the House’s distinguished history, Madame Camille Olry-Roederer, took the helm in 1932 after her husband’s death. Against all the odds, she steered it through a myriad of challenges, including the Great Depression and the German occupation during World War II. She ran the business for over 40 years and by the time of her death, in 1974, the brand had gone from the edge of ruin to become arguably the strongest and financially most successful house of all.
Madame Olry-Roederer was a very glamorous lady and renowned international socialite, who went to great lengths to associate her product by tapping into the post-war glitz of the nouvelle vague – the French new wave – and other artistic movements. 
With a residence in Paris, as well as the family home in Reims, Madame Olry-Roederer would be seen at places such as Longchamp and the famous Café de Flore through the late 1950s and 60s, where everyone from Yves St. Laurent to Jane Fonda hung out. It was a time to be seen living life to the full, and Madame Olry-Roederer was one of the world’s leading socialites.
Meanwhile, in the hugely expanding US market, she used the same tactic to promote her Champagne, and the soon the hippest actors and musicians, coupled with American high society, were toasting Madame Olry-Roederer and drinking Louis Roederer champagnes.
Madame Camille Olry-Roederer was a woman of passion and significant business acumen, attributes she bestowed upon her grandson Jean-Claude Rouzaud and great-grandson Frédéric Rouzaud, who took over the family business from his father in 2006 after Jean-Claude’s 37 years in charge.
The current vintage release, the 2006, coincides with his appointment, so 2006 clearly is a nostalgic vintage for the house – but how good is this latest release?
The 2006 Cristal is already a superb pinot-driven vintage that will only improve with age!
2006 was hot year with contrasting rainfall patterns and while the important month of August was cool and wet, the warm and dry September recovered the crop. The vintage was made from 55% pinot noir and 45% chardonnay and, from early first-tasting reports in mid-2014, the 2006 is already shaping up to be something special with scores of 97 common place.
Initially with a rich bouquet of lemon, orange and white flowers and a just hint of roasted nuts, but as the wine airs, the complex fruits become dominant with an explosive blend of peaches, apricots, melon and mango – it’s a very impressive nose and hints heavily of the indulgent pleasure to follow!
On the palate, the pinot-driven 2006 is well controlled and very powerful; opening with creamy and silky fruits before a shock of delicate freshness takes over. The minerality then takes the ripe fruits and creates a sharper citrus tone that is, quite frankly, dazzling.
The recently released 2006 vintage is already shaping up to be something special and can be fully enjoyed now. But like its predecessors, this astonishing young champagne will improve with age, and, if early indications are a guide, may go on to be one of Roederer’s all-time classics. It’s definitely one to buy now and lay down for that upcoming special occasion.
