Step Over to The Dark Side at Alchemy
Two distinctly different dining experiences under one roof
Set on two floors, Alchemy, one of Hong Kong’s most recent restaurant openings, aims to provide very different dining experiences to its discerning and possibly intrigued clientele. On the upper level, witness a contemporary classic-style bar, the Alchemy gastro lounge, which offers refined but casual dining, a tempting swathe of deliciously crafted cocktails and a healthy selection of wines, spirits and other beverages.
But venture downstairs to the lower ground floor and discover Alchemy in the Dark, a restaurant where the dining experience is devoid of the ingredient most of us absolutely take for granted – light.
Dining in the dark is not a new concept, but even in Paris and London where it’s quite popular, it remains relatively uncommon and something most people will never even have considered. Yes it’s trendy, yes, its fun, but behind it there are serious and accomplished chefs and restaurateurs eager to push the boundaries and provide an interesting and challenging culinary experience for those willing to step over to the dark side.
In Asia, there are already a small number of restaurants walking this intriguing dark path, with Alchemy in the Dark, located on Arbuthnot Road, Central, in Hong Kong being the latest. But what’s the appeal of this surreal culinary trip?
Well consider this. Have you ever eaten something blindfolded? Try it and see if you can identify the flavours, it’s remarkably difficult, particularly when foods have a similar texture, like a banana and a peach for example. You might be surprised just how much vision plays a part in our ability to distinguish taste. The term ”eating with your eyes” means far more than just avoiding things we don’t like the look of.
At Alchemy, and other dans le noir restaurants, diners are invited to re-evaluate their own perception of both taste and smell. It can be quite an extraordinary experience as the total lack of light ensures diners are focused completely on the food with no visual distraction or signals at all.
The dinners start at 7PM and pre-booking is essential. On arrival, you are personally greeted and the whole experience, including some key does and don’ts, is explained in some detail. Diners are asked about any allergies or dislikes, and then lock away personal items, such as bags – mobile phones are also strictly prohibited. The information gathered is used by the chef to tailor and create your secret three-course menu, either served with paired wine or bottled water.
The secrecy is maintained throughout, despite significant darkened debate amongst unknown neighbours about what you are eating based on only the textures, tastes and smells. It is a daunting experience at first. It also feels a little like an exam, where, only at the end when the chef explains in detail with accompanying photographs, you find out if you have passed!
Every table has a visually-impaired waiter who will guide you throughout your meal. Each guide appears to possess a supernatural memory and will give clear instructions whenever they are needed, such as where to pass your plate, where the wine or water is and the location of the toilets.
It’s worth saying that five percent of the restaurant’s profits go directly to the Hong Kong Society of the Blind, which helps visually-impaired people, like the guides, with education or other vital needs.
I think it would be crass to describe the food at Alchemy in the Dark and spoil your exploration. Suffice to say it is of a very high standard and mirrors the quality of the upstairs gastro lounge, which I will come to shortly.
Alchemy is helmed by experienced Chef Pascal Breant from Normandy in France. His impressive credentials include an apprenticeship at Le Bristol, Paris (one Michelin star at the time), followed by stints at La Tour d’Argent, Paris, (three Michelin stars at the time) and Issautier in Nice, (two Michelin stars at the time), as well as several other notable international restaurants. He follows the contemporary French style, with subtle international influences; his food is, simply put, clean and sophisticated in appearance and taste.
About stepping into the dark Chef Pascal says, “Asking diners to have blind faith in their sense of smell, taste and touch makes it very important not to neglect the dish in any way. Dishes at Alchemy are presented as if they were seen; every detail is crucial.”
The secrecy is maintained throughout, despite significant darkened debate amongst unknown neighbours about what you are eating based on only the textures, tastes and smells
For those put off by the concept, Alchemy gastro lounge provides a terrific alternative with relaxed dining and crafted drinks at lunch and dinner and a weekend brunch. Small plates join an impressive savoury menu, a host of indulgent deserts and a sizeable wine and spirits listing.
As well as a substantial and popular set lunch menu, Chef Pascal offers an a la carte choice featuring dishes such as Marinated Tasmanian Ocean Trout with homemade lemon thyme focaccia, baby capers, dill & sour cream from the starter options; vegetarian choices include Warm Asparagus with baby cress, crushed almond & aged parmesan. While for carnivores, Char-Grilled Wagyu Beef with crispy potatoes, merlot reduction, olive tomatoes & herbs yogurt is a treat, and for the hedonistic amongst us, Hot Valrhona Chocolate Fondant with dark & white chocolate shavings & vanilla gelato.
Together, the two dining spaces are almost polar opposites. On one hand, the gastro bar is a bright and lively place to hang out and enjoy great food and drinks, whilst for those looking for a totally different dining experience, Alchemy in the Dark might just be perfect. With seating for only 25 guests, Alchemy in the Dark is open from Monday to Saturday from 7PM to 11PM and tables must be reserved in advance; Alchemy gastro lounge is open Monday to Saturday from 12 noon to 11PM.
