A seasoned culinary author and beloved household name, Chef Devina Hermawan shares her professional philosophy on the evolving landscape of Indonesian gastronomy. She explores the tension between modern digital trends and the timeless discipline required for authentic, soulful cooking. From the hidden potential of indigenous ingredients to the necessity of patience, these insights reveal the standards behind her celebrated craft.
E: From street food to fine dining, what is the one dish that still makes you reach for your phone to take a photo?
A: I am drawn to dishes with strong character. This often stems from distinctive flavours, unique local ingredients, or an arresting presentation. Whether served at a humble stall or a white-tablecloth establishment, a dish becomes memorable when the cook remains sincere. That honesty shines through every bite. Those are the specific moments I feel compelled to capture. For me, a photograph is less about the aesthetic and more about documenting a chef’s authentic identity.
E: Is there one dish that you think must stay difficult to keep its true taste?
A: Many recipes allow for adaptation, but certain techniques cannot be rushed. Depth of flavour often relies on the luxury of time. Processes such as slow braising or gradual reductions are essential to authenticity. Take rendang as an example. Using thinly sliced beef might speed up the process and taste pleasant, but it fundamentally alters the dish’s soul. Some recipes carry a specific culinary philosophy. Preserving those laborious methods is the only way to protect their true character and cultural heritage.
E: When you evaluate a dish, do you look for technical perfection or the emotional story?
A: I prioritise execution over the initial concept. A creative idea loses its impact if the kitchen cannot deliver. Some of the most soulful meals are deceptively simple, such as salt-grilled seafood or a perfectly charred steak. The brilliance lies in consistency. Discipline, sourcing, and rigorous attention to detail elevate these basics. When a chef masters the fundamentals, the dish becomes unforgettable. Technical precision provides the foundation upon which a restaurant’s identity is built.
E: Where do you look for inspiration when you feel a sense of culinary fatigue?
A: Travelling remains my greatest source of inspiration. Being in an unfamiliar environment provides a necessary jolt to the senses. Even returning to a familiar city can reveal fresh perspectives if the timing is different. Travel highlights how various cultures adapt to their surroundings. I enjoy observing how people utilise specific tools and local ingredients to forge a culinary identity. These observations broaden my perspective. They constantly refresh my approach to cooking and menu development.
E: Which local ingredient remains the most underutilised in fine dining?
A: Indigenous Indonesian herbs and fermented ingredients, such as andaliman and tempoyak, possess incredible complexity. Despite this, they are often overlooked in modern cuisine. Many chefs still rely on “safer” international components rather than exploring our regional bounty. There is massive potential in applying refined techniques to these humble elements. When we treat everyday local staples with precision and respect, they become exceptional. Elevating these ingredients is the key to defining a modern, sophisticated Indonesian culinary identity.
E: How has social media changed the way Indonesian chefs approach their craft?
A: Social media has forced a faster global exchange of ideas. Chefs must now be more creative to compete with international trends and digital creators. This shift has made the industry more visually aware, helping Indonesian cuisine gain the recognition it deserves. However, expectations have soared. A chef is now judged on storytelling and presentation as much as taste. The primary challenge remains ensuring that substance and authenticity do not get sacrificed for the sake of a viral moment.
E: Has the rise of home cooking made diners more critical or more appreciative?
A: Professionalism is the baseline for any dining experience, regardless of the price point. Guests choose a restaurant based on specific expectations for that occasion. While diners are certainly more educated today, satisfaction still hinges on execution. A home cook might understand the effort involved, but they visit a restaurant for the level of consistency that they cannot replicate at home. A simple dish executed flawlessly will always leave a deeper impression than an ambitious concept that fails to deliver on the plate.
Exquisite Taste Volume 51
Devina Hermawan
IG: devinahermawan
