The first thing Raffles Bali’s Director of Culinary Gaetan Biesuz reminds diners of Loloan Coastal Peruvian is that it isn’t authentic; neither the chefs nor ingredients are 100 per cent Peruvian, after all. But, that doesn’t mean the restaurant isn’t faithful to time-honoured techniques and flavours.
For instance, the kitchen imports their ají chillies, one of the backbones of the cuisine’s flavour profile, from Peru, making sure the distinct fruity spice is properly honoured. Ají amarillo, the yellow varietal with a sweet and sunny note, is found in many creations throughout the menu. Among them is Tiradito Hamachi, prominently featuring the pepper in a bright sauce bathing fresh slices of Japanese amberjack sashimi. The grassy, apple-like flavours of ají rocoto becomes a fiery finishing touch to fresh plates like the Solterito and tricolour Quinoa salads. Meanwhile, the more intense ají limo packs a punch reserved for heartier proteins, such as the Tokusen Wagyu-based Tiradito Nikkei.
Yet, it never looks farther than the bounties of local lands and waters for fungible ingredients. Seafood arrives fresh each morning, caught just the evening prior by local fishermen like Pak Oka. Fresh produce also comes from all over the archipelago. Cassava for the Yuca Fries and purple corn used in Chicha Morada, a traditional Andean drink, are both sourced locally. Meanwhile, potatoes come from farmers in Java, with plans to cultivate Peruvian varietals and oca (a South American root vegetable) as a way to enrich the dining experience while maintaining local sourcing practices.
It’s easy to see how the cuisine is a perfect match for Loloan’s locale, sitting on the oceanfront edge of Raffles Bali in Jimbaran. Both regions share a history rooted in fishing: Peruvians scoured the Pacific on caballitos de totora, while fishermen of Jimbaran Bay rowed out to the Indian waters in jukung. These two stories are distilled into one culinary identity, one that warrants exploration while retaining a sense of familiarity.
Bamboo Lobster is a natural manifestation of that connection. Found along both Balinese and Peruvian coasts, this species almost acts as an obvious bridge between the two regions, while simultaneously representing the former’s seafood culture and the latter’s robust flavour profile. Other links are more understated; the Beef Lomo Saltado, for example, may seem familiar, resembling the Chinese black pepper beef. It shouldn’t come as a surprise, since Peruvian cuisine itself has influences from different roots, including Chinese, Japanese, Spanish, African, and Indigenous fare.
If one arrives here early, the bar is more than happy to serve as patrons’ landing pad. The drink programme follows the kitchen’s philosophy, even sharing ingredients like chillies, herbs, and fruit. One of its highlights is the pisco, a quintessential Peruvian spirit that earned its name from a coastal port town. It shines best in the classic Pisco Sour, enhanced with lime juice and angostura bitters. But, for those who prefer something lighter and sweeter, the Pisco Punch Piña mellows the high-proof bite with pineapples and agave syrup for a fruity, tropical sweetness.
It would be unfair to reduce Loloan Coastal Peruvian as another attempt at novelty. This culinary identity is, after all, an extension of its name. Taken from the Balinese word for estuary, a symbol of transition, connection, and exchange, this new culinary identity presents itself as a balancing act between two cultures that have never crossed geographical paths, yet find harmony as they collide. “The intention was not to replicate Peru in Bali, but to interpret its coastal spirit within the context of Jimbaran, working closely with local fishermen and Indonesian producers while remaining respectful to the cuisine’s origins,” Chef Gaetan emphasises.
HIGHLIGHTS
- Tiradito Hamachi, with a bright ají amarillo sauce
- Bamboo Lobster, fresh and spicy from the ají amarillo and ají rocoto
- Pisco Sour, or Pisco Punch Piña for a sweeter and lighter alternative
Exquisite Taste Volume 52
Loloan Coastal Peruvian
at Raffles Bali
Jalan Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran
Bali 80361, Indonesia
T: (+62) 81138209559
E: dining.bali@raffles.com
W: raffles.com/bali
IG: @loloanbali
