In the skilled hands of Chef I Made Sutarga, known as Ega, preservation and sustainability become an art form at SugarSand, Hotel Indigo Bali Seminyak Beach. With a world of culinary adventures behind him, the Seminyak native infuses every plate with vibrant flavours and inventive twists, inviting guests to embark on a memorable journey that lingers long after the last bite.
E: You have worked across Singapore, the United States, and Australia before returning to Bali. How have those international experiences shaped your culinary mastery?
A: My time abroad opened my eyes and palate to new worlds. I discovered the magic of fermentation and learned to value authenticity, all while absorbing wisdom from chefs of many backgrounds. Each kitchen left its mark, shaping my confidence and inspiring me to craft a culinary identity that is truly my own.
E: Looking back at your culinary journey, what has been your greatest achievement? Was there a defining moment that changed the way you see food?
A: Being named one of Indonesia’s Big 20 Sushi Chefs in 2015, representing Bali, stands as a proud moment in my journey. Another milestone etched in my memory was leading the culinary team for President Joko Widodo at the MotoGP opening in Mandalika, Lombok. Preparing a meal for the President was deeply meaningful and remains a shining highlight of my career.
E: What is your culinary philosophy and how does it make your cooking different?
A: For me, every dish starts with deep respect for the ingredients. I treat each one with care, letting creativity and bold ideas guide me beyond the ordinary. I love surprising guests with inventive flavour pairings that are both exciting and welcoming.
E: What vision do you have for redefining SugarSand’s culinary identity?
A: From the moment I joined SugarSand, my vision was to raise our cuisine to new heights and craft unforgettable dining moments for every guest. I want people to leave not just satisfied, but also carrying cherished memories of their experience.
E: SugarSand has long been known for its Japanese-inspired cuisine and izakaya concept. How do you introduce new influences while respecting what guests already love?
A: SugarSand’s Japanese roots are strong, so instead of reinventing them, I chose to refine and elevate what guests already love. We honour the izakaya spirit while weaving in new flavours, innovative techniques, and a refreshed culinary vision that keeps our regulars intrigued and delighted.
E: What is the idea behind the newly introduced Borderless Menu?
A: The Borderless Menu is a reflection of my culinary adventures and the kitchens that have shaped me. It blends a myriad of influences, from Western sensibilities including Mediterranean, Italian, and French to Sri Lankan, inviting guests to savour a tapestry of global flavours in one meal. My hope is that each visit brings a new and memorable surprise.
E: Many dishes you present incorporate house-made garum, fermented verjuice, and artisanal pickling sauce from local ingredients. What inspired you to explore this traditional preservation technique?
A: My journey into fermentation started in Singapore, where I learnt to craft nori, koji, miso, and amazake. That spark of curiosity led me to explore even more preservation traditions. Later, working with salami and cheese deepened my fascination, inspiring me to create my own house-made garum from local ingredients.
E: Sustainability plays a major role in your menu. How do you translate environmental responsibility into memorable flavours?
A: Before crafting the menu, I dedicated two months to exploring Bali’s local ingredients and meeting with suppliers. My aim was to build dishes around responsibly sourced produce and reduce waste at every step. Each ingredient is chosen not just for quality, but for its power to create unique flavours in a sustainable way.
E: You mentioned that every dish should tell a story. Could you share one story behind a dish that guests might not immediately notice?
A: I use locally grown green grapes to craft fermented verjuice, patiently developing it over three months before it graces a dish. I also turn fish trimmings into house-made garum, ensuring nothing is wasted. These choices let me weave new layers of flavour while honouring local produce and careful artistry.
E: As someone who grew up in Seminyak, what does returning here mean to you personally, especially working at a hotel with such a strong connection to the neighbourhood?
A: Returning home is deeply meaningful to me, with my family close by. Being part of Hotel Indigo Bali Seminyak Beach, especially at SugarSand, fills me with pride and a sense of duty. It inspires me to keep creating and to invite more people to experience the unique flavours of SugarSand.
SLOW-COOKED NEW ZEALAND LAMB GNOCCHI
INGREDIENTS:
Lamb Shoulder:
- 5kg bone-in lamb shoulder
- 150g onions
- 50g garlic cloves
- 150g local celery
- 150g local carrots
- 2 bay leaves
- 5g black peppercorns
- 5g fresh thyme leaves
- 5g sea salt
- 50g tomato paste
- 1.2kg lamb stock
- 1.2kg chicken stock
- 1.2kg water
- All-purpose flour, as needed
- Salt and pepper, to taste
Gnocchi:
- 300g roasted potato flesh
- 150g plain flour, sifted
- 1 egg yolk
- 20g grated Parmesan
- 5g sea salt
- 2g ground white pepper
Pumpkin Seed Gremolata
- 60g toasted pumpkin seeds
- 7g parsley
- 3g fresh marjoram
- 10g fried garlic
- 3g lemon zest
- 1g chilli flakes
- 2g sea salt
Lamb Jus:
- Lamb shoulder braising liquid
- 200g brown onions, halved
- 100g leeks
- 50g whole garlic bulbs
- 250ml local red wine
- 5g fresh rosemary
- 5g fresh thyme
- 10g sea salt
- 5g ground black pepper
- 20g local brown sugar
METHOD:
Lamb Shoulder:
- Grill the lamb shoulder and mirepoix (onions, celery, carrots, and garlic) until well browned and lightly smoky.
- Transfer to a deep gastro tray with the remaining ingredients.
- Cover and roast at 180°C for 4 hours or until the lamb is tender.
- Remove the meat and strain the braising liquid separately.
Lamb Jus:
- Sauté the aromatics, herbs, and brown sugar until fragrant.
- Add the strained braising liquid and simmer gently for 4–6 hours, skimming the fat regularly until it thickens into a velvety consistency.
- Strain one more time for a completely smooth, refined jus.
Gnocchi:
- While the roasted potatoes are still warm, gently combine it with flour, egg yolk, Parmesan, salt, and white pepper. Avoid overworking the dough.
- Divide and roll into finger-sized logs, then cut into approximately 3cm pieces.
- Boil for 2–3 minutes, transfer immediately to an ice bath, then dress lightly with olive oil.
Pumpkin Seed Gremolata:
- Roughly chop all ingredients and mix well.
- Season with lemon zest, chilli flakes, and sea salt.
PLATING:
- For each portion, slowly pan-fry 110g gnocchi in 10g butter until golden
and crisp. - In a different pan, reheat the lamb ragú before trasnferring to the serving dish alongside the gnocchi.
- Spoon over 30g lamb jus, finish with 10g pumpkin seed gremolata, and serve immediately.
Exquisite Taste Volume 52
SugarSand
at Hotel Indigo Bali Seminyak Beach
Jalan Camplung Tanduk, Seminyak
Bali 80361, Indonesia
T: (+62) 3612099999
E: sugarsand.restaurant@ihg.com
W: seminyak.hotelindigo.com
IG: @sugarsand.bali
